As if you needed more reason to make this than mandarin brown butter…
Brown butter is magical. Full stop. It’s nutty, slightly sweet and oh-so rich. I enjoyed finding different ways to counter that richness in this dish. First by adding citrus to the brown butter, and second by serving with a tart, peppery arugula salad. And I have no doubt you saw ‘pickled grapes’, and went… really? But trust me on this. Slightly tangy and sweet, mixed with creamy castelvetrano olives and brine, a bit of lemon peel. My hope with this dish is to leave you feeling as inspired as I was creating it.
Crispy Skin Bass with Mandarin Brown Butter & Arugula Salad w. Lemon Castelvetrano Olives & Pickled Grapes
SERVES 2
MANDARIN BROWN BUTTER
3/4 stick of grass fed butter (6 Tbsps)
4 small mandarins, juiced and strained of solids (4 Tbsps)
SALAD
2 fistfuls fresh arugula
1/2 cup whole pitted Castelvetrano olives in brine, 3.5 oz (or pits removed)
1 tsp extra fine strips of lemon peel
20 red seedless grapes, 6.5 oz
1 tsp granulated sugar and 1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns
Extra virgin olive oil
FISH
2 x 8.5 oz striped bass filets with skin, tail ends which tend to be more even thickness all over
Kosher salt
Black pepper
1.5 Tbsps neutral oil
First, let’s prepare our pickled grapes, lemon castelvetrano olives and mandarin brown butter.
For the pickled grapes, rinse 20 grapes and then cut in half across and place into a clean jar with a tight fitting lid. Add 1 tsp granulated sugar, 1 tsp kosher salt, 1/2 cup white wine vinegar and 1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns. Set aside.
Next, roughly chop 1/2 cup castelvetrano olives, removing pits first if need be. Place in a bowl. From a lemon, using a sharp knife or a vegetable peeler, remove a few pieces of lemon peel. If it has any white pith on the back, be sure to remove that, as it will taste bitter. Cut the lemon peel into fine, thin strips and mix in with the olives. Add 1 tsp of the olive brine and 1 tsp of good olive oil, mix and set aside.
Next, let’s make our brown butter. In a medium sized pan, add 3/4 stick of butter cut into a few small pieces (TIP: using a stainless pan or a pan with a light colored bottom will help you to identify when the brown butter is ready). Place over med heat. Allow the butter to completely melt as you start whisking, to keep the butter moving as it cooks so that it will brown more evenly. It will take a few minutes but don’t walk away or stop whisking. You will first see the butter get foamy before the milk solids suddenly turn caramel brown and it smells incredibly nutty. Straight away remove the pan from the heat and pour the butter into a heat proof container. You can make brown butter 2-3 days in advance and store it in the fridge. It will solidify so just warm to melt before using.
Next squeeze your mandarins through a fine mesh sieve, to remove seeds and solids. Mix together 6 Tbsps of the brown butter with 4 Tbsps mandarin juice. Add a small pinch of kosher salt. This will be the sauce for our fish.
Take your 2 pieces of fish and pat them very dry. Salt and pepper both sides.
In another stainless steel or cast iron pan, add 1.5 Tbsps neutral oil. In order to get crispy skin on the fish we need to make sure the pan is hot enough: when the oil is shimmering, add fish to the pan skin side down. It should sizzle. If it doesn’t, take it out and let it get sufficiently hot. Allow the skin to completely get crispy, about 8 minutes. It should release from the bottom of the pan with just a little help. At this point you should also see that the fish on top is cooking through all around the edges, except for in the center. Remove from the heat and tilting the pan away from you, flip and cook the fish the rest of the way through in the hot oil, a minute or two. If your fish is a thicker cut and still needs more time, put it back over a low heat until cooked through.
Cut fish into two smaller pieces. Drizzle with mandarin brown butter. Serve next to your fresh arugula topped with the pickled grapes and lemon casteltrevano olives. Drizzle arugula salad with a touch of extra virgin olive oil and a little sprinkle of kosher salt.